Ceramic tile mural · San Buenaventura Mission, Ventura · 2018

Ventura Historic Mural

A hundred and fifty years of a city, told face by face beside the Mission

For Ventura’s 150th birthday, Michael O’Kelly drew the whole town — founders and firemen, surfers and musicians, a pizza-maker’s father — fifty feet long and one face at a time, then set it in tile on Main Street, beside the Mission where the city began.

The Ventura Historic Mural, fifty feet of hand-glazed tile read left to right: the San Buenaventura Mission and Chumash, vaqueros and early settlers; Victorian Ventura with the great fig tree, the railroad and the first fire company; oil derricks and the Ventura County Star; the pier, a coastal steamer and the Mexican community; mid-century downtown with Tony's Pizzaria and a surfing break; the arts, the Rubicon Theatre and local musicians; and, at the far right, firefighters and a phoenix for the Thomas Fire of 2017.
1866 ← drag along the wall → 2017
Installed
January 2018
Medium
Hand-glazed ceramic tile
Technique
Cuerda seca, with metallic glazes
Dimensions
50 ft long × 9 ft high
Occasion
Ventura’s 150th anniversary, 1866–2016
Historian
Cynthia Thompson
Funded by
Private sponsors
Made with
Juan Aguierre, master ceramicist
Location
San Buenaventura Mission, Main Street
Access
Outdoors, free, any time

Film

Michael at the wall

Six short chapters from a walk along the mural with the artist, in his own words. Pick one, or let them play through.

Subtitles are lightly edited from an automatic transcript and still to be checked by Michael.

Read the transcript

A historian’s spreadsheet“And this row of tile plaques here represents the people who sponsored it — who funded the whole thing. This woman here, for example, is a very well-known historian, Cynthia Thompson, and she made me a spreadsheet. We had all of this in writing: location, buildings, people, time — and I followed that spreadsheet and started to draw. The drawing for this is 25 feet long. This is 50 feet long. It took a year. A very slow process of picking the people, getting imagery from the museum and from books, of what they looked like, and trying to represent them one person at a time, trying to fit them in, and make a composition that makes sense as a work of art as well as a story.”

The butterfly secret“If you want to hear something you might find funny — You see these monarch butterflies here? The reason they’re in those locations is that I made a mistake on the drawing. In all those spots they didn’t want to redo it, so I put a butterfly over the mistake. I’m telling my secrets, man.”

Building a wall to last“In the building next to the Mission, we would bring the tiles as they were made and lay them out. Some of the tiles got broken, so we had to redo those. The installation took about three months. You have to be very careful. The wall has to be made absolutely flat — reinforced more than most walls. Every block has rebar in it, and it goes down about six or seven feet, so it won’t move. If it moves in an earthquake, the whole thing moves. We had a team of construction guys — they were great — and we redid the whole sidewalk too. Then there were just four of us putting it up. We built a canopy over it so we could survive the sun. It was hard work.”

A thousand-year tile“The beauty of this is: whatever the weather, the tile we make will last a thousand years. If you go to Spain or Portugal, there are tile murals that have lasted 1,300 years. It’s the cuerda seca technique. You make the drawing — see the outline here? — with an oil-based wax, which is what they used back then. To make the tile, everything has to be a compartment. The teeth are a compartment, the hair’s a compartment, and this colour can’t go past that line. The line creates a dam. Everywhere you see the black line, it contains the glaze, and when it’s fired — it kind of mounds and makes a beautiful texture. It’s almost three-dimensional. It makes people feel good. It’s like having an artifact. An archaeologist could dig this up a thousand years from now, and it would still be like this. It’s fired at 2,150 degrees.”

The town’s own faces“All these people — they’re wonderful people who sponsored it. They were so generous. A lot of these people are alive and well today, and they love this thing. There’s a place called Tony’s Pizzeria down the street. He came here and started to cry when he saw it, because his dad’s on it. He was in the Second World War. A lot of people alive today have relatives here who have passed on, so it has an emotional connection to the people of the town.”

The ending he redrew“I changed the ending of the mural because of the Thomas Fire. I had about five feet already designed, and when the Thomas Fire hit, we had to change the whole ending. It could have burnt the town down. The town was saved by the firemen — and one of them died, so we put a memorial plaque there for Cory Iverson. This last part is new. I had to quickly redesign it, redraw it and make the ending: Ventura Strong. Thomas Fire, 2017. And the phoenix rising from the ashes. The fire department came to my studio to thank us. They were really moved that we honoured them.”

Michael O’Kelly, at the wall, September 2026. Lightly edited from an automatic transcript; to be checked by Michael.

Find it in the mural

The butterfly hunt

“The reason they’re in those locations is that I made a mistake on the drawing,” Michael says. “So I put a butterfly over the mistake. I’m telling my secrets.” Six monarchs hide six mistakes. Drag along the wall and tap each one you find.

Found 0 of 6

The whole Ventura Historic Mural, to search for monarch butterflies.
123456

Five more things to find

Each one opens the wall at full magnification.

Detail: a painter on a scaffold with a palette, painting the San Buenaventura Mission, at the far left of the mural.

A painter at each end

The wall opens with an artist on a scaffold painting the Mission — and closes with another painting “San Buenaventura 1782”.

Detail: the old firehouse with the F.I.Co. emblem and a red fire engine, beneath monarch butterflies.

The first fire engine

The first firehouse and its first engine, marked F.I.Co. The building still stands, remodelled.

Detail: a crowd of townspeople, one holding a copy of the Ventura County Star and a rolled paper reading 1866 Aventura 2016.

The Star

The Ventura County Star was one of the sponsors. Look for the paper held up in the crowd, and the rolled one reading 1866–2016.

Detail: mid-century downtown Ventura, with Tony's Pizzaria under a yellow awning, the Top Hat hot-dog stand and Merle's drive-in.

Tony’s Pizzaria

When the owner saw the mural, he cried: his father, who served in the Second World War, is on the wall.

Detail: a phoenix rising from flames beside a firefighter's badge reading 3431 and a banner reading Ventura City, Thomas Fire 12-2017.

The phoenix

The last thing on the wall: a phoenix, “Ventura Strong” and “Thomas Fire 12·2017”.

Reading the wall

Left to right, 1866 to 2017

1/7
Stretch 1

Where it begins

  1. Where it begins

    The wall opens where Ventura did: the Mission of San Buenaventura, founded in 1782, on land the Chumash called Shisholop — their word for the wetlands, bog and estuaries this all once was. Around it, the Mission bell, longhorn cattle, a vaquero, dancers, and a painter on a scaffold at work on the Mission itself.

  2. 1866: a city

    The town incorporates. Victorian courthouses and houses rise behind the great fig tree that still stands by the post office; the railroad arrives from Los Angeles; the first fire company gets its engine. A Chinese woman beside the train stands for the Chinese quarter that grew up near the tracks. Nearby are a congressman, William Vandever, and Teddy Roosevelt, who visited around 1906.

  3. Oil, orchards and the Star

    Derricks crowd the hills: for a few years, Michael says, this was the biggest oil-producing place in America. Medallions of apricots, lemons, avocados and strawberries float above, with a grizzly and a mountain lion. Below them, the doctors, investors and newspapermen who made the town grow, one of them holding up the Ventura County Star.

  4. The pier and the people

    The long wharf, with rails running to the end, where steamers loaded oil and produce for San Francisco; the Ventura Brass Band; and the Mexican community of Tortilla Flats, at the end of the street, later erased by the freeway. Michael doesn’t soften it: “The Chinese kind of got pushed out, and the Mexican community was kind of dissipated… It wasn’t easy.” At the centre, a “Working Class Shero”: a tribute to working women.

  5. Downtown and the surf

    Mid-century Ventura: Tony’s Pizzaria, the Top Hat, Merle’s drive-in and the ballroom sign; a woodie with boards on the roof and a painted VW bus; the break at the point, a seal, and a whale off the islands.

  6. Arts and culture

    The Museum of Ventura County, the art association and film society, balanced-rock sculptures on the beach, the Rubicon Theatre, the music festival and Café Voltaire — and the town’s musicians, among them Nick St. Nicholas, a founding member and bassist of Steppenwolf, at the centre of the band with his bass, and the McEwan family.

  7. 2017: Ventura Strong

    The ending he redrew after the Thomas Fire: present-day Venturans among poinsettias, firefighters, a phoenix rising, and a painter at work on “San Buenaventura 1782” — the wall ends as it began.

December 2017

The ending he had to redraw

Five feet of the ending were already designed when the Thomas Fire came over the hills above Ventura in December 2017. About five hundred homes were lost, most of them on the hillsides; the town itself was saved by the firefighters.

One of them did not come home. Cal Fire Engineer Cory Iverson died fighting the fire near Fillmore, and a plaque in his memory now sits with the mural.

“This last part is new. I had to quickly redesign it, redraw it and make the ending. Ventura Strong — and the phoenix rising from the ashes.”

Michael O’Kelly, at the wall

Afterwards the fire department came to his studio to thank him. “They were really moved,” he says, “by the fact that we honoured them.”

The last stretch of the mural at night: fireworks and a full moon over the sea, a crowd of present-day Venturans among poinsettias, a firefighter in a helmet, and a phoenix rising from flames above a banner reading Thomas Fire 12-2017.
The redrawn ending: firefighters among the townspeople, and the phoenix at the far right.

How it was made

From a spreadsheet to the sidewalk

“This mural was a big experiment,” Michael says. It took a year to draw and longer to glaze, and it was built to outlast everyone on it.

Close detail of the mural's musicians: guitarists, a saxophonist and singers, each colour held inside a raised black line.
Cuerda seca, close up. Every colour sits in its own compartment behind a wax-resist line — “the line creates a dam.” Fired at 2,150°F, it comes out “almost three-dimensional.”
  1. The historian’s list

    Historian Cynthia Thompson gave Michael a spreadsheet of the people, buildings, places and dates the wall had to hold, starting in 1866.

  2. A 25-foot drawing

    A year of drawing, one person at a time, from photographs in the museum and in books: “a composition that makes sense as a work of art as well as a story.”

  3. Glaze experiments

    Metallic glazes mixed with ordinary ones, fired and refired, over about a year and a half.

  4. Laid out next door

    Finished tiles were laid out in the building beside the Mission to be checked; any that broke were made again.

  5. A wall that won’t move

    Rebar in every block, footings six to seven feet deep, and a new sidewalk. “If it moves in an earthquake, the whole thing will move.”

  6. Four people, one canopy

    Four people set the tile under a canopy built to keep off the sun. Installation took about three months.

See the whole cuerda seca process, step by step →

Who paid for it

A wall its sponsors built

Press & recognition

What was written about it

  • 2 Jan 2016
    Unique project to capture Ventura’s first 150 years

    Ventura County Star, editorial — backing the legacy mural before a tile was made, and calling O’Kelly “the perfect choice for this visionary task.”

  • 2018
    Mural celebrates Ventura’s more than 150 years as a city

    Local press — the unveiling, with Mayor Christy Weir on the historical research behind it.

“Art is one thing, but historical accuracy is crucial.”

“My hope is that families will come here and see their family history. Children come to the Mission and look at the history of our city.”

Christy Weir, Mayor of Ventura

Murals · building facades · fountains · bronze

Thinking about a wall of your own?

A town’s history, a company’s story, a family’s. Michael starts every commission the same way: a conversation about the place, the people in it and what the wall should say. Then a drawing.

See it

Visiting the mural

The Ventura Historic Mural on Main Street, set under a shallow canopy against the Parish Center of the San Buenaventura Mission, with a tiled plinth of sponsor plaques beneath it and flags beside it.

Address

San Buenaventura Mission
211 E Main St, Ventura, CA 93001

Open in Maps →

Where exactly

On Main Street, against the Mission’s Parish Center, under a shallow canopy. The sponsor plaques run along the plinth beneath it.

Access

Outdoors and free, day and night. It is a busy sidewalk, so step back to the kerb to take in the whole fifty feet.

Nearby

The Mission, the Museum of Ventura County, and Las Palmas at 60 California Street, a few minutes’ walk away. Main Street building facades →

Detail of the mural's arts and music stretch: musicians, singers and townspeople in hand-glazed tile. Michael O'Kelly at the mural, explaining it to visitors.

Commissions

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